This will be equal parts a review and love letter. I’ve owned three different formulations over the years, just got a bottle of the most recent formulation and I’ve worn it every day for the past two weeks. That’s incredibly rare for me with any scent to the point that I can’t remember the last time I did it, if ever.
I’m going to approach this review assuming no one has ever smell Guerlain Vetiver or vetiver in general.
First off, what is vetiver? It’s a prominent ingredient in many fragrances, but I don’t think many people know what it is. Sure we know about lemons, grapefruit, roses, leather (even though all leather smells are synthetic, there is no natural leather oil) but what is vetiver?
It’s a grass native to India, although now there are varieties throughout the world. Haitain and Indian vetiver are prominent in fragrances, and they do smell different. In the wild and with farming, vetiver is an excellent plant for erosion control. It’s roots extend down to 13ft, which is longer than many tree roots and absolutely insane for a grass. It’s used for natural pest and weed control as well. Insects lay their eggs in the vetiver plant, the larvae get stuck and die. The oil is a natural termite repellent. It outcompetes weeds, and has antifungal properties as well. It is used in skin care medications to treat acne and sores. It’s also used in animal feed.
What does it smell like? An intoxicating melange. Raw, green earthy, piercing, astringent, smoky, clean and dirty at the same time, slightly soapy. Many people describe it as the smell of freshly mowed lawn, but I disagree. The smell of regular grass is very different from vetiver. Vetiver is grass like but with a citric tinge, and also an oceanic iodine type smell mixed in, along with the smell of the earth, loam and roots. It’s a bewitching, complicated aroma, strong enough to build a myriad of fragrances around with few vetivers smelling truly alike.
Guerlain Vetiver wasn’t the first vetiver on the market, but it’s still one of the oldest that’s been in constant production. It was originally designed in 1961 for the Latin American market, Guerlain decided for a global release. It’s a perfect ‘latin machismo’ smell for me, hot, tropical, strong with swagger but still chic and elegant.
https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guerlain/Vetiver-69.html
This is the formula fragrantica has listed but I think it’s for an older formulation so don’t take it at face value. For the record I actually love the current formula the most. I know that’s blasphemy since VinTagE is BEst and lord knows I say that too, but all credit goes to Thierry Wasser at Guerlain for updating the formula with respect and helping it’s beauty evolve. Guerlain and Chanel are two companies that handle reformulations properly and quite frankly should embarrass the shit out of everyone else who ruins their classics. LOOKING AT YOU RALPH LAUREN.
The current Guerlain Vetiver is of course vetiver dominate. This isn’t as “sunny” of a vetiver as Grey Vetiver. GV is sunny in an office in Manhattan, this is sunny on a sprawling plantation in Haiti. The opening is a mix of lemons, bergamot and neroli forming a natural Fruit Loop type bouquet which enjoys it’s existence uninterrupted for maybe one minute before the swinging dick party animal note of VETIVER comes in and seizes center stage. This is the smell of vegetation on a hot day, the kind where you can see the heat shimmering in the air. It’s lush, natural, lung filling spirit raising green, nature embracing you without smelling like you rolled in a peat bog. Yatagan, now I’m looking at you.
Vetiver is like a diamond, multifaceted and interesting enough to command your attention on it’s own. The other notes recede into the background, a choir murmuring while a single voice goes to the front and unleashes a brilliant solo. If you have a brilliant diamond ring there is elegance in simplicity, and you don’t need to gild the lily and throw a bunch of other jewels on because you can. Same with a steak. A good steak doesn’t need to be over seasoned or over cooked.
As you experience Guerlain Vetiver throughout the drydown you will detect and enjoy the different facets. I can smell the roots, I can smell the iodine like a Talisker single malt, I can smell the earth.
As the drydown progresses something that I consider magical every time I wear it happens. The peppery tinge becomes slightly amplified, the dark earthy notes become slightly amplified, whiffs of spices begin to appear. The solo has ended, any longer would be vulgar. Now the choir of supporting notes comes back into play, harmonizing and supporting the lead.
Black pepper, nutmeg, leather, and dry tobacco leaves each blend with an enhance the strengths of the vetiver, allowing it to evolve without weakening. You go from a field in the tropics to a spice market, a tobacco shed, a tannery, a tour of different slices of life. It’s brilliant, absolutely brilliant and when people talk about a fragrance evolving this is one of the best examples out there. There is no start/stop for any note, it’s all smooth progress.
One of the many reasons I love this is because in the summer, at my job I sweat. I sweat alot. It’s 95-115 degrees inside here, there’s no way around it. Contrary to what some of my co-workers believe, dousing yourself in Aqua di Gio doesn’t mask your sweat. Deo helps but you sweat from multiple places on your body. And if you bathe in AdG you just smell like AdG AND sweat. However Guerlain Vetiver’s drydown mixes with your natural body aroma. Don’t get me wrong, wear deo, moisture wicking clothes and please shower, for the love of god shower. But don’t be afraid of how you’ll smell if you’re active. Fresh sweat (not stale, there is a huge difference) and GV combined has yielded surprising and enthusiastic compliments. The spices and leather in the drydown blend your own natural smell in a very nice way.
I love this fragrance, if you can’t tell by now.
Performance is superb, easy 8-12 hours on skin, days on clothes. Projection is good, arms length. This was for an age before the metrics for fragrance quality involved figuring out how much of the bottle was needed to drop panties in a club. Grow the fuck up, you’re wearing a fragrance not aerosolized GHB. It won’t shout, it won’t fill a room, it will leave a soft trail behind you.
Is this a good work scent? I’d say it is THE good work scent, at the very least neck and neck with the greats like Platinum Egoiste, Green Irish Tweed, etc. It gives off an aura of calm, collected, experienced masculinity. Is it a good club scent? No. That’s not a knock against it but this is the type of scent I find men 25 and up enjoying the most, and that’s not really peak club demographics. However considering how well it does in the heat I would say it could be worn in a club as well and you’ll stand out from the Ambroxan and bubble gum crowd. It’s refined enough for formal events as well. I’m going to a gala tomorrow and will most likely be wearing it when I attend.
Quite simply, this is one of the best fragrances ever, one of the most beautiful fragrances and one of the most “masculine” fragrances ever in my opinion.
Smell: 10/10.
Performance: 10/10
Versatility: 10/10
Originality: 10/10
Price: You can get this for 30 dollars. But even at full price, it’s 10/10. It beats the hell out of “niche” vetivers four and five times it’s price. Roja Dove, looking at you.
Overall: 10/10. I wouldn’t change a single thing about this fragrance. I’ve been wearing different formulations for decades and I see no reason to change that.
